How DMA cheats work — from the hardware up.
The short version: a DMA cheat reads game memory from a separate machine over a PCIe bus, so nothing runs on the PC the anti-cheat scans. Here's the full, honest breakdown.
Every cheat works one of two ways. Software cheats inject a DLL or driver into the game process — they modify, read or write the game's memory from inside it. They work briefly, then the anti-cheat catches the signature and your account pays for it.
A DMA (Direct Memory Access) cheat removes the software from the equation. The game PC's memory is read over a physical PCIe card connected to a second computer. Nothing is injected, nothing runs on the gaming machine, and the anti-cheat simply has no process to find.
What you actually need
- A DMA card in a PCIe slot on your gaming PC.
- A second PC (even a mini PC) running the cheat software.
- A fuser (HDMI/DP) to overlay the second PC's output onto your main screen.
This is why our how-it-works page walks through the three parts in detail. If you're deciding whether it's worth it, read what you need for DMA setup first — the hardware requirement is the real cost, not the software.
Why it's "undetectable" — and what that really means
DMA isn't undetectable because it's clever at hiding. It's undetectable because there's nothing on the scanned machine to detect. The anti-cheat scans the game PC for injected DLLs, drivers and memory writes. A DMA setup injects nothing and writes nothing on that machine.
The honest caveat is on our detection page: no cheat is immune forever. But DMA is the category that's stayed ahead of the anti-cheats because it moves the attack entirely off the defended machine.
The realistic cost
The card + second PC is the real money. The software itself is cheap — see what a DMA cheat costs for current pricing. Most people already own a spare PC or an old laptop that's enough for the second machine.
If you already have the hardware, the software side is the cheap part — see what we offer.